Monday, September 30, 2013

Mongolia is kind of like a parade- there are always interesting things to see, friendly people, and NEVER a shortage of candy.

Some beginning tales of my first couple days in BX:


My ger

my first ger fire
I live in ger now.  It's awesome.  I roughly hit my head about 28 times a day...on average. (yes I keep a tally)  I maybe should have brought my derby helmet.  Anyway, after a day of not sleeping – due to awkward plane times to BX, I arrived at my ger as the sun was rising around it.  When I first entered my ger, I was with the school director, two random Mongolians that helped carry my bag, and my hasha neighbor.  There was of course a plate of offerings passed around- what I thought, in my very tired state, to be dried cheese curd.  I respectfully took a piece, and since everyone was watching me, took a small bite to be polite.  Much to my surprise, I discovered that this treat was not the dried cheese curd that I so dislike, but it was in fact, just solidified grease.  SURPRISE!

Also, my ger smells like a camel.  Given that all the bactrian camels are out in the countryside, and not actually in the city as I originally thought, I am taking this as a win. 

The hasha dog

My new hasha dog...is vicious.  I heard a rumors about the dog before I even arrived, and turns out, they were true.  terrifying.  nothing like Balto.  It is a very husky brute of a dog with blood red eyes and an inward breathing growl that just creates fear. Due to its viciousness it is kept chained to the fence.  It’s name is Bankor (for now, always subject to change).  I have been slowly feeding it bites of solidified grease every time I walk past as to get him to like me and not want to eat my face off. 

Meat soup

So I spent two weeks through this big change living out of my suitcase and buying food from stores that I wanted to eat.  like vegetables.  My awesome personally crafted diet included very little, if any meat.  The morning  i moved into my ger, my hasha family brought me over a bowl of meat noodle soup to eat before i went to sleep.  Now, normally, i would eat around the meat, but this particular morning, it was weird...I WANTED to eat the meat, and I found myself eating around the noodles...I was very highly surprised by my actions, and began wondering how much I have actually changed since coming to Mongolia...my wonder however ceased when my hasha family also decided to share dinner with me...meat rice.  My normal self was back...wishing that Balto was around to share my dinner with.  I took this opportunity to share the meat with Bankor, in hopes, again, that he will now not want to eat my face off any more. 

More tales of meat.

My hasha neighbor  took me grocery shopping the day after my arrival.  I picked up all my basics, like flour, rice, onions, a couple eggs, etc.  And when I told my hasha neighbor I was ready to check out, she gave me the craziest look! She asked me about what meat I wanted to buy, as if I forgot to put meat into my basket.  I told her it was ok, I would get it next time, but that was absurd to her.  She pulled me to the meat corner, and threw a chunk of pig in my basket.  I asked her how much it was, which of course was absurd to ask, because it was meat.  turns out it was about 7000 tugs (like 5 bucks) and the most expensive thing I would buy that day.  Once leaving the store, she  pulled me across the street to the meat warehouse, telling me that i also needed some cow.  Once inside, it was rows and rows of carcasses hanging about, and I was ushered through them to a cow table.  I expressed that I have to eat the chunk of pig before I buy cow, and my hasha neighbor accepted this statement, and was satisfied that I now knew how to at least get to the cow portion of the meat market.

Spiders.

I think that spiders are going to be my new best friends. They are everywhere in my ger.  My former policy for killing spiders was to live and let live, depending on two things:

1. their decisions to touch/crawl on me; and
2.  if they were poisonous.  (Sorry brown recluses)

However, now, there are just so many in my ger, that my policy has been quickly revised.  My average spiders killed a night is around 18.  I have a specific kill zone for them at least, and as long as the spiders stay out of the area, they are safe.  I lie in my bed at night before I go to sleep, and watch them all crawl around.  When they get in the area next to my bed, I strike.   It's quite exhausting...kind of like counting sheep, only a little more...rugged.

Sometimes in my sleep, I feel them crawling on my body, and I sleepily snatch them and throw them across the room. 

What to do when you put on an article of clothing and realize that it has a spider hiding in it:


  1. Scream, loudly
  2. Strip and Trip – defined as the process of taking off your clothes in such a fast, panic-ed manner, that you literally fall on your face.
  3. Shake out your clothes both inside and out
  4. Get dressed, again, but this time in fear.

Oatmeal

I love oatmeal.  that is a given fact.  It is a little scarce in Mongolia, so when I saw some in Suhkbaator, i naturally bought it, and packed it in my suitcase to move to Bayankhongor.  Well, the other day, some Mongolians that did not speak english came to fix the bed in my ger.  One of them spotted the oatmeal, and let out a chuckle with a confused look on her face.  She asked me why I had horse food...and I said, neigh...thats my food.  She laughed. Asking me what it was called, I looked it up in the dictionary, and showed it to her. The dictionary translated it as some type of rice, so the Mongolian understood.  She then said something to the extent of 'octo-mill' to which I thought was a Mongolian word I didnt understand before I realized she was saying oatmeal.

A dry sink. 
If you are unfamiliar, a dry sink is a sink without pipes or running water that you can use for your sink needs.  There is a bucket underneath that catches the water you use, and when it fills up, you empty it. The water in the bucket is always very nasty, and the bucket below my dry sink is pretty gross and rusted, but you know, it does its job.  My dry sink also has a quite abnormally large hole that the water and what not drains down.  Things fall into my sink a lot, which created a fun game that I hate to play called, will that fit down my dry sink hole.  So far, here are the results:

Nail polish: yes.
chapstick: of course.
entire bar or soap: naturally
vitamin bottle: no. awesome.
toothbrush holder: surprising, when dropped at the right angle, yes. 
my eyeglasses: of course. why wouldnt they.

Social Situations

It is not uncommon in Mongolia for people to drink shots of vodka...and most times, when gathered in a circle and shots are being passed, it is normal for the person receivng the shot to start singing a song, and then everyone else joins  in.  At the end of the song, the song leader takes the shot, and the process starts again.  I really only know two legit traditional Mongolian songs, one of which is the Mongolian National anthem, so really, in such drinking situations - not appropriate.  So the other day, my counter parts all got together to celebrate one of the teachers getting married.  I found myself in such a singing situation, and much to my horror, before it was my turn to take the shot, someone had already sang the only other song that I knew.  A few songs later, it was finally my turn...and I just sat there with an awkward smile on my face, with everyone egging me, saying, surely you know another song...and they were right, i did...Naraa Naraa Naashar...the mongol equivalent of ring around the rosie...so I started singing, and with a laugh, everyone joined me for a very rushed sing a long. 

Fermented Mare's Milk

Actually not that bad.  Maybe like a creamy champagne?


Picture time:

my fellow english teachers

yaks!

view from the mountain top...with yaks of course

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